Rig and Maintenance: tips for climbing the masthead safely

With the spring season now not too far away, for many (but not all) a period of touch-ups, checks and last-minute maintenance kicks in. Simply put, with the sun starting to warm, it is a great time to check the condition of one’s boat and related equipment. After dealing with Osmosis, Wheelhouse and Mast, this series of ‘short maintenance tips’ thus comes to an important step: how to get on the masthead (your own) safely. Something not taken for granted, though particularly important.

Climb the masthead: how to do it safely

As we saw in the previous article on mast and rigging maintenance, inspecting the mast from foot to top is an important thing to do, and doing it safely is critical. Not only to inspect it, but also to take action in case of any problem. Here, then, are the steps and precautions for a properly carried out mast ascent (and descent).

Maintenance. Safety First

The first point, even before equipment and technique, is awareness: knowing what you are doing, the risks involved, and how to go about it is essential. The second, consequential point is to have a good ‘second’, i.e., a contact person at the winch who knows what he or she is doing, whom you trust blindly and who is well aware of the risks that, whoever climbs, potentially runs. If you do not feel confident and you have the opportunity, better to seek professional help (there is no shame in not wanting to take unnecessary risks). That said, you can move on to the equipment.

To climb safely at this point, it is a good idea to have:

• Safety rope:* possibly, a semi-static mountaineering rope, so that it is more elastic and can cushion the fall (it must, of course, be in good condition, as must the halyard with which it will be hoisted to the masthead);
• A (second) halyard in excellent condition (with which to hoist the person);
• Fall arrest system:* is a device that connects you to the safety rope: should the halyard ‘betray’ you, this prevents you from falling.
• Harness: let it be of quality, possibly not the ‘bowman’ kind, but complete with straps on the trunk (back and chest) as well. This is because, in case of sickness, accidents or falls, it will keep you in the correct position.
• *If you do not have a fall arrest system, you can secure yourself to two halyards (one of which, the one you would otherwise use for the safety rope), thus ascending with two separate halyards to keep you in tension. In this case, two people to assist you would be better than one.

To these items, a helmet (to protect your head, especially if you will be climbing with the help of an electric winch) can then go to join, as well as a bosun’s chair, which is useful if you have to carry out work at height for prolonged periods (sitting in the bosun’s chair is much more comfortable than hanging from the harness). A bag in which to keep tools for the work to be done or for inspection is always recommended, so that you have everything stowed away in a place tethered to you (needless to say, no one should be stationed under the tree or falling objects could become dangerous).

Last note, coming to safety: it is not recommended to use the self-tail of the winches! The contact person at the winch must always hold the line and pay attention to what is happening at altitude. Here, communication is key: agree on precise gestures and, if you have a way, communicate with earphones and/or the like.

Maintenance. Safe ascent and descent

Before going up, first, make sure all your gear is in good condition (including seams) and that it is worn correctly (harness). At this point, belay at the halyard and check that you have done it correctly. Do not use undersized or dubiously sourced carabiners! Use mountaineering carabiners (with safety) and/or a repassed 8 knot, the same knot that is used, precisely, for climbing (it is better than a bowline in that it will not loosen even if left). Of course, secure yourself to the fall arrest system as well. Test the whole thing by hanging a few tens of centimeters from the deck, so as to put tension on the whole thing.

Climb: good practice, especially in small trees, is to climb by standing close to the tree, not like ‘potato sacks,’ but helping yourself with arms and body as if it were a wall or ladder. Fundamental, then, is standing perpendicular so as to find handholds and avoid obstacles. Swinging like a pendulum, on the other hand, is the worst option; avoid it.

On large trees (where it is therefore best to consult a professional), it is instead good practice to climb sideways, making use of the rigging and spreaders as handholds. In fact, the large diameter of a particularly tall tree, as well as possible pre-flexion, could get in the way.

Descending: as a rule, what is true for ascending is true for descending. Obviously, in both cases, climb up and descend slowly, slowly: everything must be done safely. Going down, also, remember that it is more difficult to avoid obstacles, as you ‘land’ on them, not go towards them with your arms.

Ascent and descent aside, when you are at the point of operation, or stationary at the points you want to inspect, it is a good rule to secure yourself further: both because it never hurts, and to avoid having to necessarily hold on, thus being able to work with your hands free and avoiding possible slips and thus pendulums (especially if you are halfway up the tree, toward the ends of the spreaders).

(To help you with the ascent, you may consider an ‘anti-twist ascent ladder,’ in fact, a special ladder to be hoisted to the masthead to facilitate hoisting.)

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