How to choose the right fenders for your boat

Just decide on the correct diameter, number and try to spend as little as possible. This we usually do when it comes to choosing fenders for our boat.

How to choose boat fenders

But in fact the topic deserves to be treated with less superficiality. First of all, all we need to do is to do a minimum of research and a market as varied as ever will open up before our eyes. Not only made up of cylindrical and spherical fenders, but also rectangular, flat, inflatable, angular.

Below we will compare the two most popular “families” of fenders. The traditional cylindrical one and the more modern flat one, complete with pros and cons.

• Read also: Boat winterization, what you need to know

How many do I need?

Let’s start with some general considerations and advice: since, as anticipated, the range of offerings is wide and varied, the model you choose will depend a great deal on your boating habits and your ability to keep these valuable but cumbersome protections on board. For a 12-meter boat, seven fenders will be sufficient. Three per wall, plus one to keep ready in case of emergency.

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If you frequent very crowded harbors, or not quite perfectly ridged, you may need some extra protection: additional traditional fenders or angled ones so as to parry any bow and stern bumps.

Little space? There is the fender holder!

As with all safety equipment, the rule of “better to abound” applies. Should stowage be a problem and your choice is directed toward traditional cylindrical fenders you might opt for a fender holder. These are devices that mount by means of an adjustable clamp on stanchions or flat surfaces: they feature circular metal supports inside which fenders can be inserted. When they are not in use they drop down along the candlesticks.

Where do I place them at the berth?

Independent of the model chosen, however, is the proper positioning of the fenders once at the mooring. You will need to place them along the broadside in an area as close as possible to the point of maximum beam: thus you will in fact “cover” the area of the outer side. There is no point (except in some rare cases: for example, with very strong winds blowing at an angle to the boat) in applying a fender along the jaw or yard, areas that will in fact never come into contact with adjacent boats.

Very important then is to tie the knot of the line to the lowest battrail dredge, arranging the fender so that its upper end is a few inches higher than the scallop. This is because shortening the top reduces the amplitude of the arc of oscillation that the fender will describe as it moves. The only knot for securing the fender to the dredges is speech, preferably with a half safety neck.

Other people’s fenders

Fundamental then is to look around: alternate the position of your fenders relative to those of adjacent boats so that they do not come into contact with each other. Additional advice: your fenders and those of your neighbors should never work on windows in the broadside (most manufacturers recess glass 4-5 mm to avoid contact pressure). Finally, remember that the selvage of each fender will have to be spliced to the latter, because each knot can unravel if stressed.

The cylindrical fenders

Cylindrical-shaped fenders (or spherical, but especially on large boats because of their larger footprint) are the most popular on the market and therefore have lower costs. Polyform, Plastimo, Majoni, Dan Fender, Trem are some of the manufacturers that distribute through shipchandlers or on their online stores.

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Cylindrical or spherical, the main feature of these fenders is that they can roll along the side. A strong point in case of an eventful mooring or docking, which will allow the boat to position itself without discomfort along a dock or alongside another boat.

It must be said, however, that this ability to roll and swing along the broadside has its weak point when it comes to protecting a boat at berth for several weeks. In fact, by dint of rolling, the fender is in danger of moving upward. Also, if the top is not well adjusted, you will witness an annoying squeak.

Cylindrical fenders. Double or single piece?

Usually the cylindrical fenders are made of PVC and at both ends have two eyelets to pass the lines through (the inflation valve is placed at the top), The fender can be made in one piece, or have the heads molded separately (this solution is slightly more expensive).

Which ones to choose? Those made in one piece will wear less over time and be less sensitive to strain than hollow ones. It should be borne in mind, however, that with classical use, the stresses to which the fenders will be subjected are unlikely to converge on the upper and lower rings via the lines, but more often are due to the compression of the fender body between the hull and the pontoon: it will therefore be the central part that will be most stressed. And fenders made in two strokes have a central body that is more resistant to deformation.

The flat fenders

Developed for over fifteen years for offshore racing boats (related to the need of racers for custom-made protectors in sponsor colors, quick to stow and capable of protecting logos on the sides), flat and rectangular fenders have made their way onto cruising boats fairly recently.

They consist of a foam block enclosed in a casing with solid straps on the four corners. A flat fender has the advantage of staying put along the hull, thus reducing the risks of the protection not being in place when needed.

In addition, it is not subject to temperature changes, so there is no risk of deformation under excessive heat. Its closed-cell foam (designed to prevent any seawater infiltration) will retain all its capabilities over time. Should the wrapper be prematurely damaged, any sailmaker will be able to fix a torn seam or strap.

Definitely long-lasting, these fenders can have a dual use: not only protection, but also… cushion in the cockpit! Finally, their format allows for significant space gain in peaks as well as in ports. In fact, for the same height, flat fenders are usually less thick. An important feature when going on a cruise.

Flat is beautiful (but not perfect)

It sounds perfect, but the flat fender also has its shortcomings: leaving aside the higher price compared to traditional cylinders, first of all, since it cannot rotate along the hull, the face that touches the gelcoat must be covered with a soft fabric to avoid ruining it. In addition, because it is not attached to the hull and is lightweight, it tends to rotate with the wind. The more its size increases, the more pronounced this phenomenon becomes.