Is the port a mess? This summer I’m sleeping in Italy’s most beautiful roadsteads


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From the northern to the central Tyrrhenian Sea, including Sardinia, finding a berth in the harbor is often impossible. To solve this problem for you, we have selected 24 anchorages where you can stop for a night at anchor, escaping the chaos of ports
. And if you want to go ashore, the town is just a stone’s throw away and you can buy something for the galley, eat in a good restaurant, take a walk in the beauty of the Mediterranean. In this first installment, we tell you about Liguria, Tuscany and Lazio…


Seno of Paraggi
44°18.5’N 09°12.7’E
Immediately N of Portofino is a charming cove that ends with a beach and a small village. You can moor only in good weather in 15 to 20 meters of water. Portofino is one step away.

In Portofino, some of the best Ligurian focaccia can be found at Panificio Canale on 30 Via Roma, the trendiest bar in the little square is always Morena, and the restaurant can only be the Taverna del Marinaio (0185 269103) of the Viacava brothers. On the sea view rocks, you get there by tender there is in the gulf before Paraggi the Capo Nord restaurant (0185 289324). Very cool, quality creative food, feet in the water.

portPalmaria Islet. Portovenere
44°03.1’N 09°50.3’E
In front of the harbor in the quaint town of Portovenere one can anchor close to the islet of Palmaria, being careful of the permanent moorings of local boats. Good anchorage.

For dining the Palmaria institution is Locanda Lorena (0187 792370). Don’t miss the walking tour of the entire Palmaria Island, wild nature just a few meters from civilization. In Portovenere reach the church of San Pietro, which serves as an entry stronghold in the narrow channel between Palmaria and Portovenere. There is also wine production on the island, a delicate white wine. You can find him at Cà del Mar (0187778089).


Island of Capraia. Port Capraia
43°03.1’N 09°50.35’E
In front of the harbor and village, inside a beautiful roadstead with a rugged conformation that looks like a pirate haven. You can anchor on the south side, in stable weather, in 5/10 meters of water on sand/algae bottom.

To eat choose rustic Beppone (0586905001), which has always been the island’s sailors’ inn, or take a beautiful walk to a part of the island’s former penal colony that has now become theagritourism Portovecchio Valley (392592498 – 0586 905242), about two kilometers from the port at I Pollai overlooking Portovecchio Cove. To take their valuable organic products on board.

Elba Island. Gulf of Fetovaia
42°43.6’N 10°09.5’E
In front of a large lovely beach with restaurants, bars, and beautiful water. Toward evening, when the crowd disappears it feels like being in an exotic place. It can be anchored in good weather, in 2 to 8 meters depth.

You can also eat in the evening at the Barbatoja bathing establishment (0565 987927). A tip for the galley, pay a visit to Campo dell’Elba, locality La Pila, to fill up on Elbanese wine and oil atAzienda Agricola Cecilia (0565977322), you will find: Elba white, Ansonica, Vermentino, Elba red, Syrah, a Rosato, Moscato passito, Aleatico passito.

Elba Island. Gulf of Biodola
42°50.25’N 10°15.8’E
East of Marciana Marina a well-sheltered bay with a large sandy beach, busy during the day in summer, but with very clear water. Anchoring in 4 to 8 meters of water.

Scaglieri is the small seaside hamlet in the right corner of Biodola Bay where there are two restaurants, Da Luciano, fish specialty, (0565969952) and Due Pini, which also makes excellent schiaccine and pizzas (0565969898), located right on the beach.

Giglio Island. Cala Cannelle
42°21’N 10°56’E
South of Giglio Porto a medium-sized cove with a nice beach equipped with a bar and restaurant. From the land with a short walk you can reach the delightful harbor village, full of clubs. Anchorage in 6/10 meters of water.

Just go ashore for dinner or an aperitif at Cannelle Beach Bar (05641836146), but if you want to take a stroll to Giglio Porto we recommend La Paloma (0564809233) where they cook only what is brought in the morning, fish, fruits and vegetables are fresh daily. Bring on board a bottle of the local white wine, Ansonaco, made from 90 percent native Ansonica grapes to which 10 percent Biancone, Moscatello, Malvasia and Procanico are added. Also worth trying is Panficato, a sweet, fairly soft loaf with a distinctive brown color made from figs and nuts but also honey, wine and raisins. A visit to Giglio Castello is not to be missed.

Giannutri Island. Cove Spread-Schiavone-Volo di Motte
42°15.5’N 11°06.5’E
A wide bight on the island’s waterfront free of navigation restrictions (it is a protected area), consisting of three coves that correspond, from north to south, to three anchorage possibilities. Unspoiled nature, deep Mediterranean scents, cobalt blue water. On the ground, there is, tucked away, a residential complex with bars, refreshments, supermarket.

We eat at La Tanuta (3382295755), spartan look and simple menu: from spaghetti with clams to baked sea bream, from scampi to seafood. See the remains of the Roman villa overlooking Cala Maestra while walking in unspoiled nature surrounded by the scents of the Mediterranean scrub.

Baratti Harbor
43°00.0’N 10°30.3’E
Delightful anchorage on the coast, north of the promontory of Piombino, with a 1960s appearance. Part of the roadstead is occupied by permanent moorings. Ashore there is a small hamlet. Anchorage of yesteryear.

Great classic with terrace overlooking the sea is Canessa Restaurant (056529530 -3209328353), informal and fun is Chioschetto al Polpo Marino on the waterfront, cult dishes: octopus smash, fritura and prosecco. Must-see: Behind the small port of Baratti is the Borgo Fortificato, where there are Etruscan excavations, and it can be reached by a five-minute shuttle bus ride from Baratti.


Ponza Island. Feola Cove
40°55.2’N 12°57.7’E
One of the best alternatives to the crowded and chaotic harbor. It is located on the opposite side of Ponza harbor, but a 5-minute walk takes you to the bus that goes to the village. Natural caves and tunnels in the bay can be explored.

See the Tartufo Houses that the early settlers of the Cove carved into the tuffaceous rock. Directly on the bay is La Marina restaurant (338 6486110), informal atmosphere and Ponza cuisine. If you pop over to the nearby island of Palmarola (it deserves it!) by the sea in the harbor cove, the island’s only eatery, is the sailors’ institution O’ Francese (3802542553), a simple local menu, messy in the middle of summer but charming. Back in Ponza, the gourmet reference is Acqua Pazza (077180643), complete with Michelin star.Try the Calamarata, yellow tomato soup and seafood salad.





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