Here is a point-by-point vademecum for routine maintenance that you can perform yourself: we reveal the top five tips and tricks to best prepare your boat for the long winter rest. (Photo above by Nicola Riva).
LIVE WORK.
Once the boat is winged, the hull is cleaned with a pressure washer (a variety of models can be found on the market for a few hundred euros). Go through the entire live work very carefully, always keeping the spear some distance from the surface. Insist more on the places where dog teeth have formed, such as the sea intakes, waterline, transmission, propeller, and rudder. A light sanding will be sufficient in the spring, and then antifouling can be applied directly. In case you leave the boat moored, apply antifouling immediately.
DEAD WORK.
Since it is not constantly submerged, cleaning the deadwork is less challenging than cleaning the hull. Using a mop, scrub the surface with fresh water and specific detergent. There are commercially available brushes that connect to the hose to facilitate this type of operation.
CHIGLIA
Consisting in most cases mainly of lead, the keel should be treated in the same way as the hull. Once the marine fouling has been removed, check the surface at the hull-keel attachment area and between the keel blade and the bulb. In this area it is possible for cracks to form in the stucco normally due to keel bending when the boat is heeled over. Remove the old putty and restore it, let it dry, sand and brush the part with gelcoat. This operation helps preserve your hull from possible water infiltration.
OVERBOARD INTAKES AND OUTBOARD DRAINS
Keep an eye on the condition of your sea intakes by lubricating them inside and out with protective sprays. Check the solidity of the valve assembly to the hull and that the hose clamps are not oxidized or loose. We recommend that you close all valves on sea intakes and outlets, especially those that are below the waterline (especially if you are not pulling the boat dry). Never close scupper drains of sumps and lockers.
PROPELLER, TRANSMISSION AND RUDDER
Sometimes the pressure washer is not enough to remove fouling from the propeller and rudder. It is necessary to equip oneself with an iron brush and rub vigorously until the metal begins to shimmer. A wipe over the propeller blades with medium-fine grit sandpaper is recommended so that the surface is perfectly smooth. Check the wear condition of the zincs, both those on the transmission parts and those mounted flush with the hull. If the thickness of the sacrificial anodes is less than half the original thickness, proceed with replacement. To make this easier, it is sometimes useful to give a few light blows with a hammer to dislodge the zincs from the holder seat. Clean the ground plate or attachment area, such as the propeller shaft or rudder blade, with an iron brush. Check the condition of mounting pins and bolts; use protective spray when reassembling.
